The URL for Antico Pizza Napoletano really is the giveaway. The web address is www.anticopizza.it Not .com, not .net, but .it for Italy. Every ingredient but the water used to make the dough -- the flour, San Marzano tomatoes, olive oil, bufala mozzarella, down to a particular kind of sea salt -- is sourced in Italy. Naples, to be precise.
So I headed all the way across town to Antico Pizza with my boys last night and with high hopes. We are New Yorkers, born and bred on great pizza and happy converts to coal-fired pizza joints over the years. Our Long Island pizza palace par excellence was Port Washington's own Salvatores Coal Oven Pizza whose brazen motto is: "No slices, no credit cards, no cry babies!"
Photo: Jennifer Zyman, Creative Loafing
Antico Pizza Napoletano, 1093 Hemphill Ave., 404-724-2333
The reviews for Atlanta's newest coal-fired pizza place, Antico, have been so glowing that I told the kids we probably needed a back-up plan in case we couldn't get a table. Turns out, there are no tables at Antico, at least not in the conventional sense. What there is is a big wooden communal table (without chairs) where you can stand and eat your pizza, which is what a middle aged foodie type couple were doing when we got there. This is coal-fired takeout at the very highest level, and it is a joy! I will not rip off any more of the Blissful Glutton's (aka Jennifer Zyman) luscious photos of the actual pizzas, ovens and ambiance, but you can see them here.
We ordered a pizza margherita and a cheese calzone, both of which came out of the oven very fast, (apparently the ovens reach temperatures up to 1000 degrees, which means the pizzas cook in 60 seconds or less) were speedily sliced and beautifully boxed to go. If we had any teeny tiny gripes about the food, it was when we got home (about 7 miles away) we ate the calzone first -- it is ginormous, by the way, and fed three generously. So by the time we tucked into the pizza it was not piping hot, but still fabulous. I have no adequate words for the luscious, creamy calzone. The cheese was sublime, the crust was heaven. Nothing I've previously eaten by the name of calzone ever tasted this good. Don't miss it!
Luca Varuni, our counterman last night, is passionate about pizza. Everything about Antico is a love poem to authentic Naples-style pizza, from smoky and slightly blackened crust to the sweetness of the tomatoes.
But wait, there's more! Antico offers incredible Italian dessert. Not merely crispy cannoli shells that don't get filled until you order them so they don't get soggy, but . . . be still my heart . . . SFOGLIATELLE which are flown in from Naples. Sfogliatelle ("Sfoyadel" as New York Italians say it) is my favorite Italian pastry of all time.

Sfogliatelle are shell-shaped, with a crispy mille feuille crust and an inside that's soft and sweet, with sweetened ricotta, semolina and sometimes a bit of citron or candied orange. They are very labor intensive, and when a bakery gets it right, it is a taste of paradise. Antico's are awesome, and they come with a free cup of espresso.
I haven't been to Varasano's yet but honestly, why would I need to when there's Antico with the adorable Luca behind the counter?